One of the first stops the cousins and I made in England was here.
After Dublin the next stop was Newgrange. This passage toomb
is over 5000 years old. Due to the earth mound slipping downward over that time the stones of the foundation were pushed out and the reconstruction team had to sort of guess where and how they were origonally placed. They probably got it wrong, because there wasn't a lot of evidence left to go on, but I'll give them and 'A' for effort.
This lane led down to the little house turned B&B that we stayed at while checking out Newgrange and environs. The woman who ran the operation was great, and put on a hell of a spread for breakfast. She claimed that she was getting to old for this work and that this would probably be here final year, but then admitted that she's said that for several years now. Personally, I hope she's still entertaining tourists and feeding them breakfast's.
Guinness has a greater presence in the minds, pubs and advertising space of Ireland than any other product in any other place that I've ever experienced. If you're a New Englander, you're very familiar with Dunkin Donuts because they seem to be everywhere. But you'd have to multiply the number of Dunkin Donuts signs (and the number of stores they have, for that matter) by five or six times to come close what you see of Guinness in Ireland. That beer realy is everywhere.
The word 'burren' translates into 'stony place' if memory serves. It's an apt description anyway. The rolling, limestone hills are covered here and there with scrub and grass, but what stands out most is stone. Lots and lots of bare gray stone. If the moon had some weeds and a blue sky, it might look like this.
Hiking is open and trailless, as far as I could tell. There are some great views once you get up on the hills a bit. You do have to watch your footing there, because the limestone develops cracks (which, farther down, turn into caves) which could mess up your ankle if you're not so careful.
Every place in Ireland is dotted with castles. I found this one on the grounds of a beautiful hotel. The inside was in shambles (nothing wooden remained) but a spiral staircase still went up to the top and I was told that patrons could get the groundskeeper to open the gate and lead them up for the view.
My grandmother called this place a tourist trap, and I suppose she was right in a way. None the less they do a pretty good job of showing what medieval to pre-industrial Ireland was like, how country people lived, etc. etc. The fact that the centerpiece of the park is a castle doesn't hurt either. Can you see enough castles?
Castles aside, one of the best aspects of Bunratty were its cottages. There was a sweet smelling peat fire burning in most of them, and they gave you a good sense of what rural life must have been like in Ireland not all that long ago. My great grandfather grew up in a cottage similar this, or so I am lead to believe, along with six or seven siblings. Maybe the tight quarters made for a tight knit family.
I'm not a city person, but Killarney is a place I think I could get used to. It's open, clean and pedestrian friendly. (Then again, there are precious few places in Ireland that are genuinely automobile friendly.) The shops are strongly geared toward tourists and you can choose from a wide selection of those warm, knit wool sweaters that no true Irishman would ever be caught dead in. That's right, look around. Only the tourists are wearing them.
The Dingle peninsula is as far west as you can get in Ireland without being in the drink, or in Boston. (Boston is only an honorary Irish city, so that may not count.) The cousins took me for a drive around the peninsula too see the sights.
Yet another castle we visited. I don't remember the name of this one, but I do remember that the stone floor of the top story was supported by a wicker frame. Yep, reeds and branches holding up a stone floor with strength enough left so that I could walk on it without busting through.
It had been all refurbished and furnished with the things you'd see in a medieval Irish castle, plus a gift shop.
On the way back to Dublin, my cousin Joan and I drove through the middle of the island and stopped for a day in this town. We had a great time there, and it was a friendly little place. But it was just a little unnerving too because regardless of where you were, you were never out from the site of the Rock.
What we thought was a small castle at first turned out to be a 19th century prison refurbished and turned into a B&B. We stayed in what had been an office of some sort (cells, complete with doors that could be bolted from without, were available for patrons who required less space) and enjoyed the novelty of the place. The woman who ran the establishment must have been a reincarnation of one of the old wardens though. Her rules and instruction were delivered exactly, and when you didn't follow them (a crime to which I'll plead innocent) you were strongly admonished for it. Not the friendliest person on Erie for sure, but she completed the experience perfectly.
After getting our room at the prison, Joan and I got a furlough and went into town for a bite to eat. On the way back we heard the sound of fiddles and guitar coming from the little W. H. Irwin pub, and we were drawn inside. The next few hours were spent sipping Guinness and listening to the finest music I think I've ever heard.
The fellow on the left, one Dan Quin, added more whit to the display than guitar (though his guitar was good too). He cracked a lot of jokes and accused me of being paparazzi
when I snapped this picture. It's bad enough ya done in Lady Di,
he said to me. Now you've come for Dan Quin too!
The pretty red-head on the right joined the group late, but added a lot of sound to it. Someone told me that she had just returned from America, where she had been touring and playing with the Riverdance show.
I took close to 700 pictures on this trip to the Emerald Isle, and there are plenty more good ones to post here. Do check back.